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#11459 - 09/03/06 09:11 AM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 1987
Loc: WV
Years ago I swiveled some of my #3's the same way that Triumph #3's were swiveled, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the end of the cross-frame, across from the dog, and put a J-hook through the hole, into the double swivel. At the time we didn't have coyotes, not sure if the welds would hold a yote after pounding it on the rocks all night? May end up with nothing but the cross-frame? Just measured the frame, it's a smidge over 1" wide, pretty hefty piece of metal. One thing that would work, if a feller could get his hands on some of these "heavy-duty/crunch-proof" swivels after they punched the end holes, and fold/bend it over a piece of 1/4" flat bar-stock. All you'd need to do is slip it over the frame and insert the J-hook. That's what I was thinking, add 4 or 5 inches of chain, and another double swivel, and then the final swivel/drown lock. smile

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#11460 - 09/03/06 10:04 AM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Hal Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9914
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
I'm not absolutely sure you would get the box swivel reconfigured to fit over the frame of the trap, but if you do it's going to be a close fit. Now, just exactly how are you going to get the end of that j-hook inside that reconfigured swivel (between the smashed swivel and the trap frame) in order to thread it through the holes? smile

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#11461 - 09/03/06 10:32 AM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 1987
Loc: WV
Sorry, Hal, I was thinking about using the "swivel" before it's twisted and made into a swivel. Just a piece of flat-metal, say 3.5" long X 1/2" wide, (where the "drown-lock" hole is located, center the hole over a flat bar and fold the metal into a U shape). Same page/wavelength now? That's what I was thiniking, it'd be best/stronger without the "drown" hole. It's not going to be perfect, but close enough. Even if it does slide back and forth (between the cross-frame and jaw-tips), would be easier to keep it clean. And should be able to insert the J-hook and add the chain. smile

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#11462 - 09/03/06 12:25 PM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Hal Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9914
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
No need to be sorry, and we are on the same page. I had that idea myself one time.

A swivel body flattened out is about, 3.5 - 3.75 inches long. What you want to do is wrap that around the trap frame like a box, align the two holes, drop a j-hook down through those holes to hold the box togetherů..

And there you're stuck. If your piece of material is only as long as a swivel body, you will not be able to gain the clearance between the bottom of the trap frame, and fully aligned holes, to allow you to thread that j-hook into position. You might even get the nose of the j-hook started, but you are not going to be able to turn the rest if it in. The head of the rivet will hang up outside the box.

If you want to accomplish what you are talking about, you'll need to make your own "strap" and it will have to be longer than 4 inches. Now, when you achieve a box big enough allow to turn that rivet into place, you will encounter problem #2. If your box is big enough to clear installation of the rivet, it will be very loose on the trap base. When you bed the trap the box begins to stick up above the trap base. In a worst case scenario, the box can get jammed up against the bottom of the pan.

I strongly suspect this is why you don't see any type of fastening system that has a j-hook pivoting at the trap base, unless the j-hook is right through a hole in the trap frame itself.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#11463 - 09/03/06 06:57 PM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Drifter1 Offline
Member

Registered: 06/30/02
Posts: 47
Loc: Stroghurst,IL
I tried a J hook thru the frame of a #11 monty . I had the exact result Hal said . It would jam the pan so the trap couldn't fire . Kind of like the stop bolt Monty put onto the pans of the #2 dogless I have seen .

Since you are welding on the trap anyway , why not add a baseplate and D ring ?

Drifter

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#11464 - 09/03/06 08:40 PM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 1987
Loc: WV
Hal, I knew after your last post we were looking at things differently. Not sure how to post pics yet. The picture I sent, I just slapped that one together, while here at work. I've looked at the thing, and really can't see any major problems, it's not "perfect", but should do the job. Only tools I had were 2 slip-joint pliers, a hammer and anvil. If the J=hook is on the same side as the dog, it can't interfere with the pan. If you wanted to keep the "strap" in one place, you could do that by squeezing the open end with vise=grip pliers. I did bend the ends together a tiny-bit, and inserted the J-hook with my fingers. Like I mentioned above the "crush-proof" swivels would be better, but even the regular swivels would last for years. smile

PS, if anyone is willing to post my pics, PM your email, sure would save a lot of typing. smile

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#11465 - 09/04/06 09:27 AM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Hal Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9914
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Well, it turns out we weren't talking about the same thing. My mistake. Here is a picture Red sent. I think that will work.



smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#11466 - 09/04/06 08:08 PM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 1987
Loc: WV
Hal, thanks for posting the picture. One picture tells the story. I don't like the idea of "re-bending" the swivel, it'd be better if they were just a "strap" (without the drown hole). I put that one trap together today, added 3 links of "machine" chain, a double-swivel, and the stock chain, and another swivel/drown lock on the end. I can't see any problems. Another thing that may work would be a, say: 2" X 2" piece of "light-gauge" angle. Something like a 1/2" piece of "bed-frame". You could fold it in a vice, and drill the holes. That's a B&L #3, I don't see any reason to base-plate the thing, not sure, I don't believe a yote could bend the frame. One other thing, no welding involved. smile

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#11467 - 09/06/06 05:31 PM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Otterwater0566 Offline
Member

Registered: 02/01/04
Posts: 440
Loc: Austin, AR
Talk about beatin a dead horse, keep it simple...Cut the notches deeper and nite latch em and be done with it after leveleing the pan. If you want more tension turn the springs around further before bedding the trap. 3#'s is easily acheiveable if the springs are still strong.

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#11468 - 09/07/06 07:32 AM Re: # 3 Long-Spring Modifications. ???
Hal Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9914
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Beating a dead horse? Gosh, I think it is kind of interesting talking about trap modification.

frown -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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