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#14372 - 06/16/06 12:31 AM Re: Determining "good" lures
PaTrapperDownunder Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 05/29/05
Posts: 18
Loc: Strathpine Queensland Australi...
I agree with Hal over the year lure testing has saved me alot of time and money. This is even more important when working in predator control.

The late Charlie Dobbins thought it was important enough to write a 120 page book (Evaluation of Lures, baits and Urines)on the subject well worth the $12.00 it cost.

Mr. Otter I agree you cant go past the older lure suppliers I'd add Lenons to your list.

For a new trapper I believe that learning location is the single most important way to success.

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#14373 - 06/16/06 08:36 AM Re: Determining "good" lures
Mike Marchewka Offline
Member

Registered: 01/31/02
Posts: 152
Loc: Crystal Lake,Illinois
I'll go out on a limb here...for the benefit of the new trappers that are not sure where to start.
Purchase three lures this season...of the three one should have a CASTOR smell...one should have a Skunk smell... and one should have a RED FOX smell(gland or urine based).
With these three odors (and maybe some homemade bait like chunked up fish) you can make several sets and use either the lure odor by itself or use it with others in combination.
Just my opinion...

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#14374 - 06/18/06 03:49 PM Re: Determining "good" lures
Dusty Offline
Member+

Registered: 12/15/00
Posts: 420
Loc: North Pole, Alaska, USA
My main criteria for picking a lure is consistency. No matter what the lure, it's just not worth the hassle for me if I can't get the stuff out of the bottle at -40. Turns out that most lures that get really stiff in the cold also don't release much scent (that I can detect) in the cold - no surprise there.

After that little test (which gets rid of about 90% of the lure made), type seems to me to be about the only thing that matters. I do have a couple that consistently perform for me (I got suckered into testing them as they were being developed, they worked, so I kept using them), otherwise I use Laugemans - because Dean Wilson sold it for 40 years, and that's what you use when you trap AK!

I'm absolutely convinced that a "good" lure traps trappers, because there isn't that much difference in the performance on the trapline (after the above freeze test, which makes no difference to about 99% of the people reading this). For example, my first year trapping AK I had lots of lynx not enter my cubbies. A local trapper told me that they would often take those last couple steps for a good castor-based lure, and gave me a recipe for just such a thing. I made some up, carefully following the directions, and started catching more lynx! Over the years I've played with that recipe - replaced the glycerine with a freezeless substance that I won't mention here, back to glycerine, added catnip, no catnip, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, etc., etc., etc. Makes absolutely no difference; castor in something that keeps it smelling good in the cold catches cats. Everything else is fluff.

We - and the critters we're trying to catch - are all mammals. We all process olfactory information in about the same way, even though humans are fairly poor at gathering that information in the first place. Ever notice that you've (well, some of you - maybe laugh ) have been lured as well? Most perfumes are attractive to most people (particularly when they hold the promise of something more - just like a good dirthole!). That stuff Grandma gets in the gallon jugs at Sam's Club for $12 might not get you to looking for the source, but the vast majority of perfumes out there all fit in the "good" category. I suspect lures are about the same. Interestingly enough - judging by the aisle after isle of perfume at the store - trappers aren't the only ones susceptible to the "magic scent in a bottle" theory.

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#14375 - 06/22/06 07:29 AM Re: Determining "good" lures
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 2010
Loc: WV
All good advice above. I think Charlie Dobbins called the "sand-pad" - "blank sets". (a set without trap). One of my buddies is always looking for the "Magic Potion", a sure-fire dope that will pull critters from the next county. the guy has trapped almost 60 years. a few years ago he kept records and used 10 or 12 different lures, all caught fur. the lures were made by guys you've heard of, and not one of them "stood-out". like all of us, i'm sure he missed a few animals, but for actual catches they were about the same.

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#14376 - 06/22/06 06:57 PM Re: Determining "good" lures
FLSH ETR Offline
Member

Registered: 12/29/04
Posts: 941
Loc: Cudahy, Wisconsin,USA
Ditto, Redsnow. All great advice. Now may I add one more. Check your state regs. In Wis, we can not place bait or scent for furbearing animals during the closed season. So the sand pads will have to be done in the fall, which, as mentioned above, makes more sense anyway. Frank. cool
_________________________
"I thought getting old would take longer."

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#14377 - 06/23/06 10:15 AM Re: Determining "good" lures
NEbowhunter Offline
Member

Registered: 04/21/05
Posts: 574
Loc: Holdrege, Nebraska
alot of good advice on this topic. the sand pad seeems like a great idea, but really probably wouldn't work for me purley do to time. I'm as busy in the off season getting ready and with other stuff that i wouldn't have time and during the season, if i'm out there scouting, i'm putting in a set.

i agree with Ric on writing down your lure. If you don't, can you honestly say all year long that you remember every lure you used at every set without writing it down.

i think there is alot of emphasis on lure and some truth to it, but i believe most sucess comes from confidence. if you are confident in your technique and location and equipment, you'll catch them.

i've got friends that catch a bunch of fur that will throw out some lures cause they don't catch anything on it. some of these lures work the best for me.

on cats, if i'm catching fur, i don't pay much attention. if they walk by and don't give me a look, that doesn't necessarily mean they don't like it. they are just picky. more than likely nothing would have caught them.

on coyotes,if i start getting refusals, i get to looking more at technique than i do lure and if i finally put it together that the lure is the problem, i will switch. by the way, i have never found it to be the lure.

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#14378 - 06/28/06 07:44 PM Re: Determining "good" lures
cjstrapping Offline
Member+

Registered: 01/16/06
Posts: 239
Loc: NorthWest Ohio
I have to side with Ric on this.

(And Hal to an extent, you learn over the course of time, picking up the finer points of trapping, and what may not have worked for you at first, may wind up being your "favorite lure" a few years later)

Location.....location....location....
Just an experiment three years ago, I made 10 "mock" dirtholes. Five of them I added lure to, and the other five, simply a dirthole. All ten had an equal amount of activity.
Sure, high volume call lures may "lure" the K9 over from a not so hot location or travel area, but my opinion is, you get that fox there, a scent free (human), natural looking, solid bedded trap will cath that fox. Something in the hole to keep it working the set for a few seconds, and he's caught. I won't even post some of the goofy, absurd baits and lures I've used, but it's not rocket science. You learn the basic fundamentals, and you'll catch those not so smart fox.

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#14379 - 07/09/06 01:30 PM Re: Determining "good" lures
trap jaw Offline
Member

Registered: 06/09/05
Posts: 430
Loc: Lancaster Co. Pennsylvania
I think Mr. Otter makes a good point. If we're talking about a novice trapper inquiring about attractors, there are several good directions to lead them towards. Now let me say that there were some other good posts that mentioned location as a factor. This is also a huge point. There's not a lure in the world that will work if the set is not on location. By the same token, an average lure formulation, that is on location, can very well put skins on the stretcher.

Now, just something else to consider. A seasoned trapper can make a number of good suggestions to a novice who needs a little direction on the way of selecting an attractor with good potential, however, that still does not mean that the lure is going to produce even if the begining trapper has done everything correctly. In the general area of the county I trap , two of the more reputable names in fox trapping lures have been used to death. If you are trapping in an area that gets a lot of pressure and you are using the same lure as other trappers, well, it may effect your results also.

Having said that, it may not be so far off base to say "whatever works for you" taking into consideration certain variables. I would say to a novice " here are a few good suggestions as far as reputable lure brands, you will have to determine "what works best for you"

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#14380 - 07/11/06 06:51 AM Re: Determining "good" lures
J Severing Offline
Member+

Registered: 02/18/01
Posts: 234
Loc: Livingston Manor N.Y. 12758
kinda find it funny no one mentioned windage, for water lure and land lures, the best lure in the world isnt gonna do diddly if the animal can blow bye and have no clue......example in point....standing up wind of a half rotten, sun melted, maggot infested deer carcuse off the edge of a road and having no clue, then standing down wind of the same, tring to get far enough away from the stentch, before you toss tour cookies.....jim

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#14381 - 07/14/06 12:03 PM Re: Determining "good" lures
Mr. Otter Offline
Member

Registered: 04/13/06
Posts: 93
Loc: South Carolina
LOCATION

Is the most important part of catching,and no lure on earth will draw a animal to your trap If It's not there.

We must also understand that our senses don't even come close to a canines senses. They make a living with their nose.

There Is no magic In the bottle.

otter

Otter

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