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#18079 - 05/23/07 10:32 AM Waxing Traps
trapper106 Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 05/23/07
Posts: 19
Loc: michigan
When waxing the traps do you dip them in stright wax or do you thin it down with something, and how long should you let them set in the wax.

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#18080 - 05/23/07 12:29 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
You get the best results when you dip the traps in pure melted wax. I don't know of anything you could thin it with.

However, you must be careful. Dip only dry traps in your wax. Wet traps can cause a steam bubble explosion in your wax pot. Wear proper eye protection. Also, keep a tight fitting lid handy. If your wax pot should catch fire, you can easily smother the fire with the lid.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18081 - 05/25/07 08:03 AM Re: Waxing Traps
NEbowhunter Offline
Member

Registered: 04/21/05
Posts: 574
Loc: Holdrege, Nebraska
if you are having the problem of the wax being too thick on your traps, i've encountered that too before. you have to leave the trap in the wax longer to let it heat up to the same temp before pulling it out. had a fella tell me that and my wax job looked 100 times better.

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#18082 - 05/25/07 08:11 PM Re: Waxing Traps
claythomas Offline
Member

Registered: 11/24/06
Posts: 73
Loc: south central PA
Yep on what Bowhunter said! Last winter I did a dozen traps, they had been sitting outside in the cold. I gave them a quick dunk and hung them in my garage. The next morning I had a thick coating of wax that chipped off easily. So I redid them, only this time the steel was closer to room temp and everything went fine. Yet another benefit to having everything BEFORE the season. Go Figer

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#18083 - 05/26/07 12:58 AM Re: Waxing Traps
Grampa Offline
Member

Registered: 05/23/07
Posts: 50
Loc: Vermont
The first thing I do is buy a quality oderless trap wax NOT parafin. Good trap wax will have the right additives to work the best.

I use log wood dye. I go through my process of dying my traps. Then I heat up my wax as once it's melted it will stay hot for some time. I then bring the traps in the dye to a good strong boil. And then take the pot off my burner and put the wax pot back on to get it back up to proper heat. At this point this only takes a few minutes.

I then take the traps out of the hot dye. This does two things. The dye job ends up better and the trap is still hot so it drys quickly. I take out two or three traps at a time. I want then hot from the dye so the wax doesn't have to heat them up from cold. Hal corrected me on something, DO NOT PUT TRAPS IN WAX IF THEY ARE NOT COMPLETELY DRY. Just read his post below. I stand corrected.

I them submerge the entire trap and chain in the wax for about 30 to 45 seconds or until the wax calms down (this should not be more than a sizzle of the wax heating the metal, any spattering and your traps are not dry). This tells me that the trap and the wax are the same temp. I them pull it out with a wire hook or tongs and hang it from a wire to dry. I repeat this 2 or 3 traps at the time.

Safety tips; I wear my rubberized fox gloves both for some protection and to keep odors off. I have my trap tongs boiled with traps so I can use them to get traps out of hot dye or wax without spoiling scent. I wear eye protection and pay close attention to what I'm doing. I have no intensions of having a serious wax burn killing my trapping season. laugh

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#18084 - 05/26/07 09:42 AM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
"I have no intensions of having a serious wax burn killing my tfrapping season."

If that's the case, I strongly recommend you stop putting wet traps in hot wax. Your luck will run out some day.

"until the wax calms down" If your wax is churning and rolling, you're about a half step away from a steam bubble explosion.

I'll not allow you to recommend that procedure to people here. I don't so much care if you get yourself hurt, but I do care if you get somebody else hurt.

Beginners, pay attention. Let your traps dry a few hours at least, and better yet, let them dry overnight before you submerge them in hot wax. It dosen't matter what freakin' temperature your traps are when you start waxing them. Even if they are ice-cold, 30 to 60 seconds in the wax pot will bring them up to the temperature of the wax. They're steel, for cryin' out loud, and metals are an excellent conductor of heat. Just let the trap set in the hot wax for a minute or so, and you should get a thin, even, durabel coat of wax.

Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18085 - 05/26/07 01:33 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Sorry if I got a little bit carried away there, but this waxing traps can be dangerous, and I do worry about folks, especially young folks getting seriously injured.

frown -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18086 - 05/26/07 10:29 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Grampa Offline
Member

Registered: 05/23/07
Posts: 50
Loc: Vermont
Hal,

You're right. I've been doing things the same way for so many years, I've probrably just been lucky. But with getting older and such, I'm going to take your advice and let my traps hang longer. It may take a little more time, but sooner or later the assembly line breaks. Thanks again for setting me straight.

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#18087 - 05/26/07 11:22 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Trapper25 Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 03/25/07
Posts: 6
Loc: Port Wing, Wi
i've been adding the wax to the dye so after the trap sit there a spell i'll pull it out slowly throught the wax which will sit at the top layer.
have i been doing it wrong this whole time or is that an acceptable method?

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#18088 - 05/27/07 08:21 AM Re: Waxing Traps
Mac Offline
Member

Registered: 05/24/04
Posts: 71
Loc: Maine
Mr. Hal's concern about waxing traps should not be taken lightly. I am one of the old timers that have worked with this stuff for many years. About three or four years ago I had my first wax fire. No one was hurt, nothing damaged, and I was lucky. I had always waxed on a Coleman stove or old electric hot plate. I had recently bought a stove like one would use to boil lobsters on or deep fry a turkey.

Too hot of a temperature, to much yakking to a person that stopped by and before I new it I had a nice little blaze going on. Scared me enough to try dips and believe me that was a tough choice in itself.

Be extremely careful when using wax. I would suggest that any youngster be under competent adult supervision when waxing traps.

As far a s wax with the dye solution or on water, some guys claim to have pretty good luck, but I never did.

Mac

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#18089 - 05/27/07 12:36 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Big Finger Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 03/16/07
Posts: 10
Loc: Louisiana
Good Afternoon Down here, trappers that I know, Don't dye or wax. The reason is, they use rubber jaw traps and traps for the live market. Keeping the furs aren't worth the time. You may get 2$ for a large coon. But you can get 7 to 8$ for the meat.

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#18090 - 05/27/07 12:42 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
"The reason is, they use rubber jaw traps and traps for the live market."

Call me dense, but how is that a reason for not waxing traps? You don't have rust in Louisiana?

quest -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18091 - 06/05/07 07:36 AM Re: Waxing Traps
animalpest Offline
Member+

Registered: 08/18/05
Posts: 197
Loc: Western Australia
We set about 10,000 trap nights per year with "rubber jawed" traps and I treat them the same as every other trap. Live market or not, I must be missing something here!
Mike

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#18092 - 06/05/07 12:10 PM Re: Waxing Traps
45/70 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/10/01
Posts: 832
Loc: South Georgia, usA
I take my padded jaw traps apart, at least the ones that will come apart. I clean them seperately. Use a small brush to clean the pads, and the jaws where the pads attach.

Then I dye. I do not attach pads until after dying as there may be some water/dye held between the pad and the jaw that hasn't dried.

After dying and drying, I reassemble the pads and jaws. Then I wax.

There are some padded jaw traps that will not disassemble (pads from jaws) such as the coyote cuffs. With them, simply do the best you can.

Adios,
45/70,
RKBA !!!

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#18093 - 06/06/07 01:12 AM Re: Waxing Traps
Grampa Offline
Member

Registered: 05/23/07
Posts: 50
Loc: Vermont
4570, How are you controlling odors on the rubber jaw parts? How much more odor are you getting on the traps with all the handling.

I don't know about others, but I always get all my adjusting and tagging and prep done to my traps after I clean them but before I boil them in dye. The dye boil is in a large part to get rid of odors in addition to color and then I wax to protect the trap. Wax itself won't cover up handling odors! How do you control the odors?

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#18094 - 06/06/07 07:34 AM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
What odors?

quest -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18095 - 06/06/07 01:50 PM Re: Waxing Traps
45/70 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/10/01
Posts: 832
Loc: South Georgia, usA
What odors?

I use a small brush to remove any gross dirt and blood. Then the rubber jaws machine, screws and nuts go in the dishwasher.

Did I forget to memtion the gloves?

I dye the traps w/o the jaw pads attached. When they dry, I reattach the pads before waxing - don't want any liquid behind/under the pads.

There is most always blood, urine, and gunk under the pads of a trap that has caught. That, IMO, is the more important odor to get rid of, and it won't happen with the pads left on the jaws.

Personally, I find it hard to adjust AND maintain correct pan tension on a trap prior to waxing.

As we have permanent Trapper's ID numbers in this state, my tags, once installed, don't come off my traps (the ones that aren't stamped or etched).

Perhaps I am too particular with cleaning my padded jaw traps, but that's what I am omfortable with.

And, oh yes, did I mention the gloves?

Adios,
45/70,
RKBA !!!

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#18096 - 06/06/07 02:48 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Personally, I handle my traps with my clean bare hands. I don't believe any traces of odor I leave on these traps is going to be of any consequence. (Bill: I don't know how the devil you can put those little nuts and bolts together wearing gloves.) I just wash my hands and have at it.

As for the wax not sealing in odors... It is a common practice among some lure makers to dip the top of the lure bottles, on some of the stronger lures, in wax to keep the odor from leaking out. (I think all the Hawbaker lures used to come like this, maybe they still do.) If it works to seal the odors in a lure bottle, why wouldn't it work to seal in the odors on a trap?

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18097 - 06/06/07 09:02 PM Re: Waxing Traps
45/70 Offline
Member

Registered: 04/10/01
Posts: 832
Loc: South Georgia, usA
Practice.
And, I also believe it reasonable that wax will seal in odor.
Adios,
Bill,

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#18098 - 06/09/07 04:40 PM Re: Waxing Traps
Big Finger Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 03/16/07
Posts: 10
Loc: Louisiana
Thanks 45/70. I understand what to do in regards to padded trapps. In the pass I would take to car wash and wash real good with the use of GI brush. And thanks to the rest of you fine people. I got into trapping by accident and for some reason,I enjoy it.. I will make a effort at dying and waxing traps Like to see how it works out. Have a good day, we gone

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#25388 - 10/17/17 12:29 PM Re: Waxing Traps [Re: trapper106]
Archive Offline


Registered: 03/12/03
Posts: 1116
Dated for search.

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