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#18288 - 07/25/07 02:57 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Maybe some of this has become unclear.

Baking soda offers no rust protection, and I can't believe anyone would think it would. All baking soda does is camouflage the cable by dulling it.

From a personal standpoint, I rely entirely on the galvanization for rust protection. Generally my snares are not hanging long enough to rust before they make a catch. Even if I have to hold them over until the next season. However, I am always conscious about using up my "old" snares first, so they really don't get much opportunity to rust.

If I did have to trap in a salt water environment, I would consider giving the snares some additional protection. But even so, like Newt said, nothing is fool proof in a saltwater environment -- except maybe stainless cable.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18289 - 07/26/07 06:28 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Online   content


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 2005
Loc: Qc.
My snares are never/always old until I make a catch. Then they are garbage.

We're talking about rust and cable. But there's a lock on the snare. That rusts in a hurry unless you prepare your equipment.

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#18290 - 07/26/07 08:02 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Tell us why you think a rusty lock would be a problem.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18291 - 07/26/07 02:14 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Online   content


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 2005
Loc: Qc.
I don't find that a rusty lock is as slick on the snare closing. I'm also nervous about the odour of rust and canids. Rusty locks can also stain fur.

Up to a certain point, locks can be reused. You might as well take care of them.

My snares are all stored in 5 gallon buckets. I set the old, set some new, and everything gets mixed together in the pick up at the end of the season. Since I have changed lock types everal times, I can spot an older snare. I have a few that haven't been lucky for more than a decade. They'll be set again this year and this time might be their turn to see some action. Because my locks aren't rusty I feel comfortable doing that.

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#18292 - 07/26/07 02:38 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
I use mostly galvanized locks too. I really don't have too many rusty ones -- but a few. I don't find rusty locks to be a problem. If they do develope gritty rust in the off season, I just run them back and forth on the cable a couple of times. That polishes the rust right off of the bearing surfaces of the lock.

If you're worried about canies being afraid of rust, you'll just have to overcome that phobia on your own. smile

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18293 - 07/26/07 09:51 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Newt Offline
Member

Registered: 07/31/00
Posts: 508
Loc: Port Republic,South Jersey & C...
I never had a problem with using rusty locks. But being in my salt water (again)
I find locks with moving parts freeze up (cam locks)
and locks with thin metal will even rust away so they cant be used over. (Gregerson)
NOW, I did'nt say that threse locks were bad locks. Just that they weren't desizined for salt water.

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#18294 - 07/27/07 06:36 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9936
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
I suspect you mean that a Gregerson lock might be destroyed by rust even before you make a catch because in my experience Gregerson or any other sheet metal lock is hardly, if ever, reusable after they make one catch.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18295 - 07/27/07 06:41 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 2028
Loc: WV
Let's look at a piece of common snare cable, 5/64" 7X7. 5/64" measures 0.078125 inches. 7X7 means it's made of 7 strands, with 7 pieces per strand, that's 6 strands wrapped around 1 center strand. If we take 7 round (identical) objects and squeeze them together, any way you measure it, you should have 3 (objects) in a row at the widest place. Let's take 0.078125 divided by 3=0.026042 inches, that's one strand's diameter, that strand is 7 pieces of galvanized wire. 0.026042" divided by 3=0.008681". A dollar bill is 0.003" thick. I think most folks will agree, you don't have much galvanize coating on a piece of wire 0.009" thick. (I'm rounding #'s up) smile

I'm sure my baking soda solution was a lot more than 1/4 cup per gallon, if we can make it too concentrated, that tells me that the soda is actually "eating" the galvanize.

One way we might be able to finish this thread, if a couple of you guys have "old" snares that have been boiled in baking soda, would cut off 2 or 3 inches and unroll the strands of the cable and examine the individual pieces, and give us your findings. smile

(pm me your address, i'll mail you a new ferrule laugh )

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#18296 - 07/27/07 07:47 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Newt Offline
Member

Registered: 07/31/00
Posts: 508
Loc: Port Republic,South Jersey & C...
Lit me put it this way Hal. If the snare with a Gregerson lock, doesn't make a catch.In the first season that it is out on the line. Most likly it will be no good by the following year.
i never had one rust out the first year.

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#18297 - 07/28/07 12:14 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
northern trapper Offline
Member

Registered: 10/05/00
Posts: 274
Loc: Wood Buffalo, Alberta, Canada
I have boiled thousands of snares in baking soda with no weakening and no rust. Then I just bury them in a 45 gal drum of loamy soil. I do it with traps to and it works great

When I used Cam Locks I used to wax the lock to prevent icing, but then I switched back to the Adams lock.

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