Would like to get some simple easy ways to get rid of rust on traps and the easiest dependable way to dye traps. I have heard of some soaking traps in white vinegar for a couple of days then power washing the rust right off, but anyway my ears are open. Thanks!!!

I've heard of a vinegar soak, but I have no experience. Anybody?

The easiest way to dye traps is to boil them in the dye solution. But if the traps aren't rusty the dye won't take.

Hal

I have soaked new traps in a vinegar solution, which does remove the factory oils. Then, I toss them on the ground, under an evergreen tree for a few weeks to get some rust on them. The dye still does not take well the first year. I do not know if the vinegar solution will remove caked on rust--however, I always boil all traps in a hot solution of water and "The Works" drain cleaner, and that removes everything! Most of the crud floats to the top and I keep filing the pot until the crud overflows and the water in the pot is clear. Then I remove all the traps, hose them off and start the dye process, in the same pot, after scrubbing it out. It has become an early September ritual.

Ron

Thanks for the help Gentlemen!!!

What degree of rust are you talking about? Light powdery surface rust >>>>>> heavy flakey rust

X2....If it is not heavy, flaky rust then I wouldn't worry about it. They need to be rusted to take the dye.

If you use vinegar, soak them overnight in the vinegar solution and then make sure you neutralize the acid by soaking them for a few minutes in a baking soda and water solution.

I think I would stay away from The Works if it was me. I don't want to have my steel traps soaking in Hydrochloric Acid. That stuff is some pretty nasty stuff. We use it to etch concrete and clean swimming pool filters. Vinegar is probably about as harsh of an acid as I want to put on them. I would also neutralize in baking soda if I used The Works on them though.

Some are pretty brown but I wouldn't call it flaky. And not severe either.

In that case just dye and wax them if that is your preference

Or just wax them and be done with it

Ric,

Your advice to "just wax them and be done with it", brings a question to my mind. I guard my wax bucket very closely. I use the same wax year after year, and just keep adding new wax as the need arises. I am always afraid of contamination of odors in the wax, so I make absolutely sure that any equipment that gets waxed, has previously been boiled in a cleaning solution and a dye solution first.

How would Randy be sure that his rusty traps have no contaminates on them? Such as: excessive rust, animal odors, gas/oil, meat/food odors, human odors, etc. ?

Ron

I should have stated that more clearly.

You are correct .. you can contaminate your wax.

Only clean traps should go into your wax bucket.

"How would Randy be sure that his rusty traps have no contaminates on them? Such as: excessive rust, animal odors, gas/oil, meat/food odors, human odors, etc. ?"

My cleaning method is to boil traps using unscented dishwasher detergent as a cleaning agent. Then rinse with a clean hot water bath.

The traps are then waxed without dying

Human odor I'm not to concerned about. Excessive rust would be taken care of by mechanical means..tumbling with gravel. Other contamination is well addressed in this way