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#18298 - 07/28/07 01:05 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Maze Offline
Member

Registered: 07/27/07
Posts: 32
Loc: Nebraska
I like my locks rusty.

#1 Reason is when I check my snares and I have a shiny lock it's the first thing I see. That tells me some else will spot them a little easier also.
#2 Reason is if I have a shiny lock I usually but a leaf or something over the lock to hide it. If it is rusty I dont have to take the time to hide it. It just blends in naturally.

As far as kill poles go, to each their own I guess. I dont use them because I like to see a nice red or whatever bouncing around when I get there.

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#18299 - 07/28/07 02:00 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9833
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
"you don't have much galvanize coating on a piece of wire 0.009" thick."

Don't confuse the galvanization process with paint or similar coatings. It does not function on the thickness of the coating.

"I'm sure my baking soda solution was a lot more than 1/4 cup per gallon, if we can make it too concentrated, that tells me that the soda is actually "eating" the galvanize."

No. You've over-extended your chemistry. The reaction with a concentrated basic solution is different than the reaction with a mild or dilute base. It’s a different reaction not just a stronger or weaker version (as the case may be) of the same reaction, as you implied.

As for cutting chunks of cable, that won't be necessary. Like I said, I hold snares over for a year, sometimes more. As often happens when you make a catch and your swivel fouls (if you're using a swivel) the cable will open up on its own as the animal twists in the snare. I really can't recall seeing any rust inside any of this cable as I cut it free from the critter.

That is my observation.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18300 - 07/28/07 03:22 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Offline


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 1923
Loc: Qc.
I didn't think that different chemical reactions happened with lesser amounts. I thought that milder reactions did.

Like Hal, I never saw rust inside a cable.

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#18301 - 07/28/07 05:49 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9833
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Maybe it would be good to establish here that I don't see anything wrong with giving snares and additional treatment if you want to. I just don't think it is necessary. I don't see anything wrong with dipping them, painting them or even waxing them if you wanted to.

That said, I don't think I would personally use the same dip on snares that I use on my traps. It's too sticky for that. Maybe if I used a different solvent (I'm using lantern fuel). I've never used Formula One, but I understand it dries "hard" so that might be a good choice for snares. Again, I don't think it's necessary, but I don't think it hurts anything.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18302 - 07/28/07 07:06 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Offline


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 1923
Loc: Qc.
If you find your speed dip too sticky dilute it with more lantern fuel.I leave my dipped stuff dry a long time. My stuff has been dipped for over a month, maybe 2, and it won't be used until the end of Oct..

A "sticky" snare can also stain fur. Lock speed isn't good either.

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#18303 - 07/28/07 11:40 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
northern trapper Offline
Member

Registered: 10/05/00
Posts: 274
Loc: Wood Buffalo, Alberta, Canada
Snares don't need anything more than to have the factory oil removed and some de-scenting which usually takes the shine off as well. I think handling and setting have a lot more to do with misses with snares than the snare itself.

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#25466 - 10/25/17 01:36 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares. [Re: Steve Gilliland]
Archive Offline


Registered: 03/12/03
Posts: 1116
Dated for search.

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