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#18268 - 07/17/07 09:38 PM Cleaning and treating snares.
Steve Gilliland Offline
Member

Registered: 08/19/06
Posts: 109
Loc: Kansas
I have read that Tom Krause spray paints his snares. What are the best ways you guys have found to clean and treat snares? Also, what are your experiences and advice concerning using kill poles with snares?

(Edit. Title edited. -- Hal)

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#18269 - 07/18/07 09:51 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
NEbowhunter Offline
Member

Registered: 04/21/05
Posts: 574
Loc: Holdrege, Nebraska
i just boil them in baking soda to "dull" them up and thats pretty much it.

i don't do it religiously, but i do like to use kill poles. catch is waiting for you when you get there and you can generally tangle them pretty quick, possibly allowing for another set to be used in that location instead of having everything torn up.

i'm talking coyotes here. for cats, i really don't worry about kill poles. they do er pretty good them selves.

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#18270 - 07/19/07 05:23 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Online   content


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 2015
Loc: Qc.
I vary what I do depending on time and whim.

I used to boil in baking soda. It still happens but I'm a little leary of this method since I read that the soda can actually weaken the cable - even though this has never been a problem for me.

Often I boil them with conifer branches/alder bark. This works well once the lock is rusted a little and the sun/weather has dulled them a little.

I dip them. Sometimes I just dip half the snare (lock side). If you dip work the lock a few times so that there is no excess of dip to slow down the snare.

Best of luck. smile

edited for spelling

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#18271 - 07/19/07 06:19 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
redsnow Online   content
Moderator

Registered: 06/11/06
Posts: 2050
Loc: WV
I've also tried the soda and wood dye methods mentioned above, seems to me, really what we're doing is removing the little bit of oil protection from the cable and lock. For you guys trapping the dry, arid regions of the west, rust may not be a big problem? Locally I've had snares, locks rust after 3 or 4 weeks on land, it only takes a couple of days under water. I also don't like the shine of new cable and have been experimenting with Newt's brown dip (formula 1). From what I've seen so far, it looks good, and it's quick and easy. smile

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#18272 - 07/19/07 08:39 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Online   content


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 2015
Loc: Qc.
I've used f-1 on snares and it was excellent.

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#18273 - 07/20/07 07:07 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9945
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
"I read that the soda can actually weaken the cable"

Brian: I think you know our policy on secondhand information. smile

Can you more fully explain how the cable is weakened by boiling it in soda. I would really like to know because if boiling snares in baking soda weakens the cable to any significant degree, I'll stop doing it and stop recommending it.

Tim: It sounds to me like your baking soda solution is way too strong, especially if the cable itself is rusting. (I know this because I did that myself one time.) 1/4 cup of soda in 1 gallon of water is more than enough.

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18274 - 07/20/07 02:32 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Beaver Man Offline
Member

Registered: 12/14/06
Posts: 28
Loc: Northern Minnesota
Wont boiling snares in soda or diping them couse them to be slower and reduce your cath numbers.
This is just somethin I heard and was wondering what you guys think.

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#18275 - 07/20/07 03:01 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9945
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Sometimes answers are self-evident. Do you actully think the folks responding to this thread are interested in reducing the number of animals they catch in thier snares?

confused -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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#18276 - 07/22/07 06:47 AM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
musher Online   content


Registered: 07/22/03
Posts: 2015
Loc: Qc.
Hal: Yep, the baking soda/weakening cable stuff is second-hand. So is a lot of information I tell my kids (aids/drugs/poor driving habits). I figured that's it's better to be warned and aware than to be ignorant and surprised. laugh

I'm not certain where I got the info from but it has to be from an intenet trapping site. confused If I remember correctly, the soda penetrates the cable and weakens the inner core of the snare. This weakens the breakage point of the cable. The weakening could be caused by the oil being removed from the inner coil by the baking soda. Rust can then develop with the negative results. A dip/dye coats the outside cable leaving the inner core of the snare in it's original condition.

I COULD BE ALL WET AND REMEMBERING INCORRECTLY. That's why I qualified my statement saying that snares breaking have not been a problem with me. AND I've treated an awful lot of snares with baking soda. I've definitely treated more snares with baking soda than with anything else. However, I stopped using soda - because of what I read and because I like to try new stuff.

Hopefully someone like WackyQ can throw a little science into this. Newt must have an experienced opinion about this also.

I would prefer to be shown that soda is not harmful. When you need a batch of snares in a hurry, it's fairly simple to brew a batch on the woodstove using baking soda. smile

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#18277 - 07/22/07 12:04 PM Re: Cleaning and treating snares.
Hal Offline
Moderator

Registered: 07/17/00
Posts: 9945
Loc: Blue Creek, Ohio, USA
Well, let me see if I've got this right. You are willing to take "on faith" that boiling snares in baking soda weakens them, because you read that somewhere. Now, in order to convince yourself it's not, you require that someone "show" you it's not harmful? Don't you think your requirement for proof is a little lopsided?

Gee whiz. smile

I ain't no Wackyquacker, but I can science a little bit.

For starters, yes you can overdo this. I did one time. I had a whole box (one pound) of baking soda that was clumped up, so I just dumped the whole thing in a gallon pot with some snares and boiled them about a half hour. I don't think the baking soda at the bottom of the pot ever fully dissolved. I had a concentrated solution. Long story short, some of those snares, especially those that had coils laying near the bottom of the pot, did start to rust after a short time in the field. I had to throw some of them away.

If you boil snares in baking soda, you don't need any more that 1/4 cup (That's 4 Tablespoons) to the gallon. You are doing two things here. First, you are cleaning the snares, and removing the oily smell from the cable. Secondly, you are instituting a chemical reaction on the galvanize coating on the wire. You are making oxides and hydroxides which are a dull gray color. That's why the cable gets dull.

Where I went wrong earlier was to make a highly concentrated caustic solution. Granted this is hard to do with plain old baking soda -- but I managed to do it. In this state, instead of forming the oxide/hydroxide coating on the surface of the galvanization, the solution attacks and removes the coating. The steel is exposed and rusts quickly. That's why it is not a good idea to boil snares in lye water. Lye is a very strong caustic.

But back to the point. Boiling your snares is a dilute solution of baking soda is not going to weaken them to any degree that would be measurable to you. As for them rusting from the "inside out" I don't see how that’s gonna happen. There is not going to be enough residual baking soda "inside" the cable to do any harm.

Really, this baking soda bath is little more than to speed up the process a snare would incur in nature. Even if you hang a brand new shiny, untreated snare, it is going to dull up on its own in a few weeks. I wouldn't worry about a baking soda bath causing premature failure of your cable.

But while we are on this subject. I can not recommend soaking or dunking galvanized snares in vinegar or any other acid for that matter. Acids go "straight to the throat" on the galvanizing material. They don't form any coatings, they just eat straight away at the galvanizing. (And I hope that doesn't confuse the issue.)

smile -- Hal
_________________________
Endeavor to persevere.

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