Back in 2011, when I purchased the land for our camp site, I had to clear a portion of it for the cabin. In doing so, I found a clump of pines with a hollow area in the middle of it. Probably sixteen square. I dubbed this area, the 'log room'. I collected many pines in the clearing job, bucked, and stacked the chunks between the trees in the log room to season. Covering the tops of the racks with tarps. Since then, many of the trees have fallen, leaving the small hollow area to be more of a clearing. Need to upgrade. So I built a wood shed. Used the floor area of a metal shed that Ma Nature took down with an huge snow load. The floor consists of compacted sand, a metal grid, and exterior plywood. Roughly ten by twelve. Hauled to camp my list of pressure treated lumber, and constructed the structure. Took three days to construct. Still waiting for the metal roofing to come in, and the temps to cool down. I'll post a pic when finished.

Nice looking wood shed.

I take it that you'll leave the air holes in the walls.

Last that I heard, metal prices have came down a little bit, but still very expensive. I'm sure that lumber was high dollar too.

Yea, I believe my design will allow enough air circulation for seasoning without worrying about snow and rain slowing the process. My only concern is that it's an open shelter for critters, snakes, and wasps nests! And yea, the lumber was not cheap. But hey, wood don't grow on trees ya know!!??

Frank- the carpenter.

Yes, looks like a good design. Just thinking, if you haven't already, it would probably be a good idea to build a few shelves.

A place to store the wasp/hornet killer, mouse traps and a snake hoe. Could also store your timber chains, gas and oil and all.

Looks like it'd make a good skinning shed too. Could hang a deer, at least keep the rain/snow/sun off the meat.

One thing that I noticed, looks like you have a nice wide door. Not sure how far the wood shed is from the camp? You've seen these 2-wheeled carts, that you can pull or push. Those things will haul 3 or 4 hundred pounds, that would be more than a days supply of firewood. Or a wheelbarrel. Would save a lot of trips.

Looks good. That should keep your wood dry. I wouldn't have used pressure treated lumber for that.

Yea Tim, I've got a large shed that houses all of the suggestions you mentioned. I made the wood shed entry opening four feet wide. Don't need to bang elbows carrying wood, in or out. And I've got one of them little garden trailers that I tow with one of the ATV's. It's only a hundred feet or so to the cabin from the wood shed, but that little wagon will save many foot steps. Now I have to make some wood. Last early winter I girdled several maple trees so they would start the seasoning process while still on the stump. Well I checked them out recently and it did not work. Them trees are fully foliated. I thought I got through the cambium layer, but maybe not. I'll still fell them this fall/winter.

Frank.

Looks good. Now you have to fill it!

This is probably a silly question, but I'm gonna ask. Did you use mostly nails or screws?

They are constantly coming out with new tools, better design, longer lasting batteries, etc.

I'm just not up to date with the new stuff. But I see folks using nail guns, that will sink a dozen nails before a man with a hammer could put 2 down flush.

Another thing that I was thinking about. Don't they make some kind of "magnetic screw holder gizmo"? Just say, that a feller would be working off of a ladder, and you need to sink a screw at arms length. If you're using something like a 2.5 inch deck screw, they are hard to get started. It'll flip off, or just be hanging there.

I'm not sure what they'd call it? But I'd like to have one.

I put almost everything together with screws. And yes they do have magnetic bits.

I fastened all the framing/structural members with an older, Senco spike gun, the biggest one made by Senco at the time. I used 3", galvanized 'D' headed spikes. All the wall slats were fastened using Senco's staple gun. Staples with half inch crowns and inch and a half legs. And sure, they make a magnetic bit holder for drill/drivers. Some are equipped with a sleeve that slides over the screw to hold it in place while you stab it into position. When I'll install the metal roofing, I'll be using a magnetic bit to drive hex head screws. It seems the art of using a hammer is not taught anymore. No need to, it's all pop guns now. There's a method to pounding the hammer. It's all in the wrist. I've seen some of my apprentices use it like a club. All arm, from the waist on up! Terrible.

Frank.